There's No Accounting for Taste

After glancing at its rave reviews, we decided on “The Taste of Things” (2023) yesterday evening. Juliette Binoche and Benoit Magimel headline this romantic film about the intricacies of gourmet French cooking. The French title is much more fitting, “La Passion de Dodin Bouffant,” in its double meaning of the protagonist’s passion for food and his cook, Eugenie, whereas the English titles conveys nothing about the plot with its generic “Things.”

“Patient” is a word that surfaces often in reviews of the film as well as an appreciation for its artistic impulses and nuances. There were indeed some beautiful moments, but on the whole, we found it long (even tedious?) and, interestingly, even uninspiring to someone who loves to cook. The couple has cooked together for 20 years and life is grand, especially since Eugenie can lock her door when she’s not in the mood. Even though marriage would only complicate things, in the end, they do decide to maybe give it a go in the autumn of their lives.

An allusion to St. Augustine helps to explain what bothered me most about the film. On the one hand, truth is always moving and beautiful, so towards the end when we hear that Augustine defines happiness as continuing to desire what we already have, we’re struck by the perceptive beauty of this statement. The best takeaway of the film also turns out to highlight its shortcomings, though. Since the film has such a puerile understanding of marriage and an almost deliberate refusal to mention anything spiritual, it’s deceitful to mention St. Augustine. In the end, even cinematic artistry can’t make up for the insipid plot and characters.

If you’re interested in French cooking and an entertaining film, look for “Haute Cuisine” (2012) with Catherine Frot. No comparison.